Tuesday 16 December 2008

Hell drive to North Devon today as part of my "get in some fun before I have to get a job again" program. Up and out by 5.30am into the foggy, cold, dark and dirtyness. Squirting the windscreen every 5 minutes to clear the dirt is a pain in the arse. I almost talked myself out of it and turned round for home and bed at one point.

Glad I didn't. Ended up at Saunton which I'd never surfed before. Fun little 2 footers with the odd bigger set, bunch of Longboarders out, some had it, some didn't. Rode the 6'6" with oversized daft fin and got a few good ones, getting into the groove with it now, Saunton might be the wave it's made for and I'll be back there.

Snapped a few things as usual.

Cold set.

Quiet crowd.

Right hand rocks.

Reflecting on my daps.

Gearing up for getting cold.

Grainy cruise.

The Peebler, served me well this last year, getting traded in for something bigger next weekend. Will be remembered.
And yes thats my stupidly oversized fin on that there surfboard.

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